Welcome to the Dominican Republic

Hello everyone! Welcome to this blog where we will take you on a virtual tour across this beautiful caribbean island, a paradise close in our hearts and at the same time far away (although not that much!) on the maps.

We will talk about tourism, of course; about the fascinating hotels next to wonderful beaches surrounded by palm trees, about visiting colonial cities full of history, about food and cuisine with a caribbean twist...

We will also talk about landscapes and corners of the country little known by mass tourism, but full of beauty and authenticity, and of course about the Dominican people, their sympathy and their envy to live life with true caribbean joy.



Finally, for those who are seriously thinking about relocating in the Dominican Republic, we will be posting useful information about housing and real estate.

Also: Maps, information about dominican cities and useful tips about subjects such as travel, visas, work permits, and of course education, health and medical assistance.

And many more things: be patient as we will be doing our best to make comments and ask questions, as we will answer as soon as we can.

Welcome to Quisqueya!

The City of Santo Domingo

Santo Domingo is the oldest city founded by Europeans in the Americas: founded by Bartolomé Colón, Columbus' brother, in 1496 on the shore of the Ozama river. Its current situation is not the original one, as it was moved by Nicolás de Ovando in 1502. There we can see the New World first street, the first cathedral, first university, first hospital... The so-called Colonial Zone is like traveling in time back to the 16th century.

If you want to know more about those times, don't miss the city's museums:

Museo de las Casas Reales
Calle Las Damas, Santo Domingo
Teléfono: (809) 682-4202
9 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily
The building ws the siege of the Supreme court in the 16th century. This museum illustrates the rich heritage of Santo Domingo with tapestries, maps and other objects dating back from 1492 to 1821.

Alcázar de Colón
Zona Colonial, Santo Domingo
Teléfono: (809) 686-8657
9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Daily
This palace was built in 1500 by Diego Colón, Columbus' son, and has object that belonged to the Dsicoverer. The square where it is located has plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. Don't miss the opportunity to enjoy the ambiance.

Other interesting museums are: the Museum of the Dominican Man (Plaza de la Cultura, Santo Domingo. Tel.: 809-686-2145, hosts an excellent collection of pre-Columbian art and also of African tradition with samples of voodoo elements and carnival costumes) and the National Museum of History and Geography (Plaza de la Cultura, Santo Domingo. Tel.: 809-686-2145, showing main features of the first inhabitants of the island, the American Occupation and relationship with Haiti).

But Santo Domingo is not just that: the modern part of the city, full of high-rise apartment towers and malls, is full of animation day and night.
The skyline of Santo Domingo, is dominated by the prominent silhouette of the 31-storey Malecón Center facing the seaside avenue of the same name; and in the outskirts of the city the Botanical Garden has an excellent collection of trees and plants, including some rare varieties that only grow in this island. Among the trees that can be seen there, the national tree: the flamboyán or framboyán.

Food in Dominican Republic

Present day's Dominican Cuisine mixes taino Indian, European and African influences in an explosion of flavors rich in flavors and spices.

Casabe, a kind of flat bread made of yucca by the taino indians, became the bread of Conquistadores tht fed the expeditions that departed from the island to conquer new territories in the continent.

Other staples in the taino culture were corn and potatoes, soon imported into Europe by the Spaniards. And we must not forget the fabulous variety of tropical fruits: pineapple, coconut, passion fruit, papaya, guava and many others.


Among most typical recipes of modern day dominicans the following must not be missed:

• Mangú, traditional Dominican breakfast, made with cooked, mased plantain and fried onions;

• Dominican Sancocho , similar to a stew where different meats and vegetables are cooked together forming a thick broth. Most usual ingredients include cow, chicken and pork meat, accompanied by yucca, potatoes, plantains, yautias, pumpkin, sweet potatoes and peppers, all seasoned with coriander and parsley. The actual list of ingredients will depend on the possibilities of each family and availability of the ingredients.
  

• The "Bandera" (flag): Chicken or pork meat, rice and beans this forms the basis of most Dominicans nutrition;

• many rice dishes, as rice is the most important food staple in Dominican Republic : for example: Asopao (a rice soup, with fish or shrimps) Moro de Guandules (rice, boiled with guandules or "pigeon peas", a legume that looks similar to a green pea) , or Locrio (similar to Spanish paella);

• mofongo, of possible african origin, made with fried plantain and fried pork skins;

• And Chivo Picante or Chivo Liniero: a spicy goat stew. Unlike other caribbean islands, Dominican Republic cuisine isn't particularly spicy. This dish is one of the few exceptions.
  

• A truly Dominican dessert, made especially during Easter: Habichuelas con Dulce ("sweet beans").
  

In future posts we will be discovering the recipes of these and more Dominican dishes.

Non-alcoholic drinks

Not everything is rhum and chilled beer in Dominican Republic: tropical fruit juices are a delight; for example those made from guanábana (Soursop) juice, chinola (passionfruit), tamarind or delicious combinations such as Morir Soñando, with orange juice, ice cubes and condensed milk (or evaporated milk plus sugar).


Of course the ubiquitous soft drinks like Coca-Cola are present here, together with a local brand, Red Rock.

Dominican Republic is also renowned because of its coffee, from the arabica variety, soft and aromatic, with medium body and medium to high acidity. The coffee bush is cultivated in mid-mountain areas, and always under the shadow of bigger trees. Santo Domingo is one of the main Dominican coffee brands.

Dominican Republic Climate and Geography

Geographi of the Dominican Republic

Dominican Republic is situated in the middle of the Caribbean Sea, geographically between 68° 19´ and 73° 31´ West and between 17° 36´ and 19° 59´ North. It shares with Haiti the island of Hispaniola or La Española, one of the Major Antilles, of which it takes approximately two thirds of the surface. Total country's extension is 48,670.82km², including small adjacent islands.

The country has a shore line of 1,576 Km. and 488 Km. of border with Haiti.

The country is mountainous in a 72%, as there are several ridges that cross the country from Northeast to Southwest: Central Ridge or Cordillera Central, the most important in the country and the Antilles, and which comprises the Pico Duarte, 3,175 m above sea level. The Northern Ridge or Cordillera Septentrional in the north, separates the atlantic coastal plains from the Cibao Valley. Its highest elevation is Pico Diego de Ocampo. In the south, the ridges of Neiba and Bahoruco. Finally, the Eastern Ridge or Cordillera Oriental, separates the Cibao Valley from the Caribbean coastal plains.




Main rivers are all born in the central Ridge: Yaque del Norte, Yuna, Artibonito and Yaque del Sur.

Between the ridges of Neiba and Bahoruco there is Lake Enriquillo, the biggest of the Antilles. 42 meters below sea level and with salty waters, it constitutes one of the strangest ecosysteme of the island. Iguanas, flamingos and caymans live in its shores.

Other important lakes are Laguna de Rincón, Laguna de Oviedo, Laguna Redonda and Laguna Limón.

Climate of the Dominican Republic

In spite of being a tropical country, climate is as varied as the island geography, varying from semiarid in the West and South of the country and extremely wet in the North and center: average rainfall goes from 350mm. and 2.743,mm. per year, depending on the area.
There are two rainy seasons: For the north coast the rainiest period comprises November to January. For the rest of the country, it is May to November, with an average rainfall of 2000 mm. March is the driest month in most of the country, with less than 500 mm. There are, however, plenty of regional microclimates.



Coasts have a tropical climate with average temperaturas betwen 18º C and 25º C, being January the coldest month and August the hottest.
Central mountains, where the weather is much cooler, can even see temeratures falling below freezing point in winter.
The hurricane season in the Caribbean begins on June 1st and lasts until November 30th.

Dominican Music

It is often said that Dominicans have rhythm running through their veins. It is a true passion, that make them move and thance with the slightest bit of sound. Dominican Republic is one of the very few nations in the world that has its own true national music and dance, the Merengue.



Dominican Merengue, pretty much like its Haitian and Venezuelan counterparts, first appeared in ballrooms in mid-19th century, as a transformation, due to afro-american influence, of the European contredanse.

Later on, and imitating the good society, peasants in several regions of the island transformed this first merengue into their own style, using their own traditions and musical instruments. What today is called Dominican Merengue was born in the Cibao region of the Dominican Republic.

Instruments used in traditional merengue (also commonly called perico ripiao) are the Güira, tambora and the accordion, and that is how it is still being played in the central valleys of El Cibao.

Güira is a percussion instrument consisting of a metal en un cillinder with a handle and open on both ends, whith a series of deep cuts made on oits side. I is plahed holding it vertically from tha handle, and scratching its side with a metal comb.

The Tambora is also a percussion instrument, similar to a little drum played on both sides. In its most authentic form, it should have been made with two different types of goat skin, one for each side of the drum: on one side there should be a female goat skin, that is played with the hand, and on the other end there is a male gost skin, to be played with a stick. Tradition says that the female goats have a thinner, softer skin with a higher pitch, making it able to provide a distinct sound.



Finally, the accordion makes a stark contrast with the other two instruments as it is of German origin, complex to fabricate and play, as opposed to the simplicity of güira and tambora.

Merengue evolved with time, and left aside the accordion to replace it with trumpets and keyboard, creating modern day merengue as it is played in Latin music clubs around the world.

Another Dominican traditional music is the bachata, also considered part of national identity. Instead of an accordion, bachata is played with guitars. It is considered a hybrid between bolero and other influences such as Cuban son.

At the beginning, bachata was a marginal music, pretty much low-class played in popular parties. Its lyrics were more often than not, tragical an melancholic: alwais singing love dramas, treason, jealousy... It is called the "music of bitterness".

However, during the 70's and 80's, lyrics renovate and soften a little as they reach better off people. It will be thanks to Juan Luis Guerra and expansion of tourism what will make it popular worlwide.

Drinking in Dominican Republic

Having already published a brief description of Dominican food, it's about time to talk about drinks: We will deal with alcoholic beverages in this post, and we will dedicate the next one to soft drinks and non-alcoholic beverages.

Let's start with beer, which as you will see, is highly appreciated in the Dominican Republic.

The main brand is indeed Presidente. It is everywhere, and it is so popular that when you ask for "una fría" (a cold one, i.e. a beer) this is the brand you'll get. If you want something else, you have to ask for it specifically. By the way, now that we mention it, Dominican beer is served chilled, whis is something very nice, as it helps a lot to combat the Caribbean heat.



The company that owns Presidente also owns another popular brand, Bohemia, softer and much less consumed. Together, they probably own 90% of market share. Other brands, such as Ambar or Quisqueya are much less widespread.

Quite recently, the Brazilian beer company Brahma, entered the Dominican market with a very aggressive marketing campaign, but is encountering a strong resistance from the domestic Presidente group, which has based its strategy in an appeal to nationalistic feelings of dominicanidad, "dominicaniness", a truly strong feeling in every Dominican's heart.

Other spirituous drinks: Dominican Rhum.

Away from Dominican Republic, the most famous Dominican drink is indeed rhum, obtained from fermentation of sugarcane juice. Pure rhum reaches almost 80% of alcohol content (151º proof) and when it is sold with that alcoholic content, usually labelled "151" can be used only to mix.

Most bottles have actually a much lower alcohol content, around 40%, and this rhum can be drunk straight, on the rocks or mixed.



There are plenty of brands, the main ones being Brugal and Barceló, both well known abroad and exported in large quantities, although there are other quality brands such as Bermúdez or Siboney.

Every brand has a set of rhums of different quality, depending basically on their añejamiento (ageing period, spent in oak barrels). Their denomination is usually as follows:

• Aged 18 to 36 months: Blanco (white) rhum, light rhum, "carta de plata" (silver label).
• Aged 5 years: Rubio (blond), dorado (golden), etiqueta de oro (golden label).
• Aged 7 years: Añejo (aged).
• Aged 10 or more years: Extra añejo. some are true delicacies such as Ron Siglo de Oro, from Brugal, or Barceló Imperial (or even better, Barceló Imperial XXI). Expensive, indeed, but with such a quality and an exquisitely designed package that makes them an excellent present for a good friend.
  

What should rhum be mixed with? When it is not drunk straight or on the rocks, usual mixers include the ubiquitous Cuba Libre (rhum with Coca-Cola), the Santo Libre (rhum and Seven Up), and of course countless cocktails that include rhum among their list of ingredients.

When Dominicans go out into a bar or disco, usually sit at a table and ask for a servicio. It consists of a 50cl. bottle of rhum, an ice bucket and a 20 oz. bottle of a soft drink, plus as many glasses as people are present at the table. Each servicio allows for arount 6 to 8 drinks.

The Dominican Republic also produces local versions of other drinks such as whisky, but they can't seriously be compared to their original counterparts or true Dominican rhum.

The Dominican Carnival

"Dancing, having fun and chasing the Devil"

Dominican Republic carnivals are a unique experience, with an origin that is a mix of European carnivals and African rites.

First written references date back from 1520, when Fray Bartolome de las Casas visited the island. At that time, the inhabitants of La Vega Vieja, dressed as Moors and Christians and celebrated some festivities that evolved into current day festivals.



As of today, they are held with most intensity the last weekend of February, when the streets are full of joy and dances. Depending of the region, in some places carnival is celebrated every weekend during February or even the beginning of March. Very often they go well beyond what is usual in other countries, and end up overlapping Easter and lasting until the Independence (February 27th) and Restoration (August 16th) Days, with which they are often associated, rather than with medieval carnestolendas. Other, different dates exist in some cities that celebrate their own carnival, but always with the same creativity and enthusiasm that can be seen in February all across the nation. These "different" carnivals often have a stronger african origin, and are called Cimarrón carnivals.

Cities with a reputation of having the best Carnivals are:

La Vega

For years and years the La Vega carnival kept distinctly Spanish features, with a lot of theatrality, dances of Spanish origin and the colorful costumes of the Diablos Cojuelos (Limping Devils) which are a medieval representation of the devil.

Every Sunday during the month of February, the Limping Devils come to the streets, armed with dried cow bladders and hitting everyone who dares come down to the street, but always respecting those who stay in the walkway.

This picturesque colonial heritage has been transformed by the African presence, where strong Cuban migration, and the presence of people from La Vega's poorer neighborhoods have played an important role.

Montecristi

Montecristi has a beautiful carnival tradition, peculiar and extraordinarily symbolic, mainly expressed in Los Toros (The Bulls) as central characters, and their fights with the Civiles. This is a true combat with whips, where the fighters try to make their opponents fall to the ground.

Toros (Bulls) wear a mask and colorful padded costumes, which protect them from their opponent's whips. Civiles, on the other hands must wear shorts and T-shirts. The winner is the one who best resist their enemies's hits or manages to take them to the ground.

San Pedro de Macorís

Declared Cultural Heritage of the World by the Unesco, the Macoris carnival features the Guloyas, devils wearing colorful disguises decorates with small mirrors. With their whips and cow bladders, they dance to the rithm of flutes, drums and cowbells.
Thedance itself comes from the British Antilles, from where many of the city's inhabitants are originary.

Santiago de los Caballeros


In working class neighborhoods, particularly La Joya and Los Pepines, is where one of the most authentic carnivals of the country are originated. Joyeros and Pepineros colorfully dressed fight each other, following a long-dated tradition of rivality.

Dominican Republic History

This small, young country has a history that is difficult to summarize in a few words, but we will try to tell you the main historical facts in a few lines:


The original inhabitants of the islasnd were the Taino indians, who called their motherland "Quisqueya", which means "Mother of all lands", or "Bohío", which means "home" and is a word that in the local Spanish dialect means "hut, small house".

The ferociuos Caribe indians, who lived in nearby islands and gave their name to the Caribbean Sea, called this island Haiti, which means "land of mountains".

Cristopher Columbus discovered this island on December 5th, 1492 and called it Hispaniola. During its period as a Spanish colony it was never highly populated, so the paulatine arrival of French settlers ended up, after the Treaty of Ryswick between Spain and France in 1682, witht the divison of the island. The westernmost part became a French posession with 27,750 sq. km. while the eastern remained under Spanish rule with 48,734 sq. km. In 1795 France, after the Treaty of Basel, in 1795, took posession of the whole island.

On January 1st 1804, after a slave uprisng in the western part of the island, the Republic of Haiti was born.

In 1809, Dominican forces, led by landowner Juan Sánchez Ramírez, rose against French occupation. This rebellion intended to come back to the Spanish rule. However, this return to Spain plunged the island's economy into a state of total inactivity, called "la España boba" or "the foolish Spain".

This led to the proclamation of independence, with the name of Dominican Republic, in 1821, although it is invaded by Haiti the following year. This situation will last for 22 years until Juan Pablo Duarte, together with the members of a secret society called La Trinitaria manages to free the country and proclaim indepenence again in 1844.


Nevertheless, the convulse period that follows independence ends up with President Santana asking for reinstating Spanish rule in 1861. This will last only until 1863, when the War of Ristoration gives back its sovereignity to the Republic.

During the following years, unstability remains and the United States occupy the island during 8 years to ensure payment of outstanding debts. Later on, dictator Trujillo will rule the islend from 1930 up to his murder in 1961.

At this moment, struggle between left wing movements on one side, and the heirs of Trujillo ideology, cause an alternance of leftist goernments (Juan Bosch, from the Dominican Revolutionary Party, PRD), military putschs and eventually a new American invasion in order to "avoid another Cuba" in 1965.

In 1966, Joaquín Balaguer, former Trujillo's number two, wins the elections that took place under American occupation. He will stay in power for 12 years, among frequent accusations of fraud, in spite of a strong economic development.

From 1978 onwards, elections have allowed a peaceful alternance in power between the three main parties: PRD, PLD (an spin off from PRD) and Balaguer's PRSC, who managed to remain in power during 10 years more, from 1986 to 1996. As of today (2007) the president is doctor Leonel Fernández (PLD).